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Extract from the Utrecht Travel Guides: "I groaned with the idea of living all winter in so shocking a place", wrote Boswell in 1763, and UTRECHT , surrounded by shopping centres and industrial developments, still promises little as you approach. But the centre, with its distinctive sunken canals - whose brick cellar warehouses have been converted into chic cafs and restaurants - is one of the country's most pleasant.

The focal point is the Dom Tower , built between 1321 and 1382, which at over 110m is the highest church tower in the country, soaring to a delicate octagonal lantern added in 1380. A guided tour (Mon-Sat 10am-5pm,...
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