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Extract from the Odawara and Hakone-Yumoto Travel Guides: Travelling from Tokyo to Hakone, you'll pass through the historic castle town of ODAWARA , some 75km west of the capital. The castle (daily 9am-5pm; 400) looks pretty impressive, especially in spring, when the cherry trees in the grounds explode in pink blossom, but it is a recent reconstruction and a visit here is soured by the appalling conditions of the zoo just next door.

Better to press on to HAKONE-YUMOTO , the small town nestling in the valley at the gateway to the national park. Despite being marred by scores of concrete-block hotels and besso (vacation lodges for company...
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