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Extract from the El-Arish Travel Guides: Originally a Roman garrison town named Rhinocolorum ("Noses Cut Off") after the fate of dissidents exiled there, EL-ARISH has experienced more than its fair share of invasions. Happily the latest one is peaceful and largely welcomed: Egyptian tourists attracted by the palm-shaded beaches and bracing rollers. But Westerners have been slow to follow, which is why the tourist poster advertising El-Arish superimposes their images on the beach.

Whether through cause or effect, El-Arish is more conservative than the Aqaba coast resorts, with restrictions on booze and dress a...
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